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Measuring The Space For The Shower Door

There is nothing magical about measuring for a shower enclosure. There are a couple of things which need to be understood to make sure the unit is manufactured for a precise fit. The manufacturing tolerance is to the 1/16th of an inch, and each panel of glass is manufactured to fit the space. If you have a shower opening where the opening is larger at the top than at the bottom, then the glass will be made larger at the top for a precise fit.

1) To get accurate measurements the tile or marble must be completed before the measurement is taken. This means at the time you measure you are ready to start the install. Our fabrication time is 5-7 days, and shipping typically takes two days on the West Coast and five days to the East Coast.

2) Using a glass marker (wax pencil) put small marks on the tile where you want the unit to set. Make sure the marker you use can be washed off the tile, and mark on the tile not in the grout lines. Generally a unit is installed in the center of the curb, not on the outside edge. After you have your marks on the tile consider the aesthetics of how the unit is positioned. Evanthough a grout line may not be streight, it might look better to match it or move it one way or the other. Check for clearance for the door to swing. Building codes require the door swings out, but most of our Euro Frameless units can swing into the shower as well as out. This is a great feature in that after you shower the door can be opened into the shower and avoid any water dripping onto the floor.

Measure and Mark the Space

Measure from the Curb to the Top.

You can specify the height of the unit to be what ever you want, but 72 inches is the most commonly specified height. The general rule is to go at least as high as the shower head. The hardware should not be seen over the top of the unit. Normally the door is mounted on a 4-6" curb, so if you are measuring for an ADA barrier free shower which doesn't have a curb you should be making the enclosure 76-78" to achieve the same coverage. If your tile doesn't go to the ceiling don't take the height right up to the top of the tile, or try to line up a the top with decorator tile. You may have a perfect match on one side, but be off by a ittle bit on the other side. Your eye can see this difference, but if you back off a 1/2" the deference isn't as noticeable. If there are mirrors in the bathroom check how the unit will look in the mirror.

3) Our quote sheets have a section which is labled " Space Dimensions".   These are your measurement of the space.   The measurements at the top of the unit are just as important as the measurements at the bottom.   It is a good practice to use a wide measuring tape or to have some help with the top measurements.   Make sure the wall surfaces are straight, and check for fall-in or fallout.   A long level (6 feet) makes this measurement much easier.   We will cur the glass to match you wall conditiond.   It is common to have a kick-in on the bottom tile on each wall.   If it is minor the seals will take care of it.   A kick-in of 3/16" or more requires a special cut in the glass.   Now is the time to inspect your tile work.   Basicly you don't want to have any places in the shower that will collect or pool water.   The curb at the door should be level from one side to side, and have a slight slope (1 to 1-1/2 degrees) into the shower.   If there is a seat in the shower it should have a slope into the shower.   In general the curbs top edge tile is bull-nosed, and the vertical tile butts up to it.   This puts the grout line on the side of the curb not the top.   The opposite configuration will have problems over time.